how to lighten shell cordovan
379X Military Last. Should be an easy ship across the pond. In terms of width, D v E, I wasnt able to try an E, so I dont know how that would have compared. I live in Atlanta but regularly travel to NY for work and have been trying to plan a work trip for next week to coincide with the NY pop-up; sadly I dont think it will work out but will hopefully get an opportunity next time in NY or London. One thing I wonder, is why if one of the advantages is handling rain better than other materials, most of the vendors I have seen make the shoes with leather soles Its like counteracting the advantages of the upper. No, this was a slimmer prototype I was trying. I have relatively slim legs compared to my feet width. Hi Simon, do you have any recommendations as to where I would be able to get my hands on low vamp alden loafers in the UK? Splashes can produce white marks (welts) but the treatments above deal with these. So, for example, there are shoes that can only be purchased from Shoemart or Leffot or their Madison Avenue store, etc. 2. There was nothing wrong with them (although they were a bit stiffer than calf) but, for the price, they were just a bit underwhelming and I occasionally felt the need to tell people they were Cordovan. Apologies, yes youre right Visa. Just checking you dont think I am here? I just might get a pair.. they look great with Denim. So, thats not recommended. Yes white marks can appear just from the natural oils in the leather, and its a danger with using cream. A guide on how to care for cordovan shoes can be found here. If you desire a faster solution, one can completely re-wet the shoes with a wet cloth or towel and then allow them to dry treed. Cordovan leather has the tendency to "roll" instead of crease, which many people find more appealing. Yes, thats one of the better pros. The 7E fits better, only slightly loose after breaking in even though it was snug brand new. You could wear most things, the versatility point was more about colours and materials things might look best with. Any thoughts? Sam: Its due to the material sort of rubbing against itself when creasing, which breaks the surface of the shell. It would be super cool to see you commission something vegan just to see whats achievable if you apply the same craft and taste to a different material. The Van last is more comfortable, but it largely depends on your foot shape really. In terms of patina, the range of tones goes from a deep burgundy to mahogany that I find really appealing. Am I missing something? And it can look great! Kind of like the abrasions you can get on suede where you get light streaks in the nap. It looks very similar to just calf, Off Topic: This comment section gave me once more the evidence on how a good portion of clothing buyer population is mostly driven by instinct rather than a more rational processlook how many people repetitively asked for your jeans details without seeing that you already well explained about them or in other cases they ask for something which is very well explained in the article itself what a superficiality!! In your article about your Belgravian loafer, you write, that these shoes are your favorite and most versatile shoes. I will confess (and so would my father) that we have many more fine pairs of shoes than one deserves. It was a long, sunny period and I didnt look at them again for a few weeks until we had some unexpected rain. Ah well, True. Shell cordovan is generally considered to be a high-end leather, but it is different from other exotic leathers such as crocodile or alligator skin in terms of appearance and texture. What materials and colours work with suede that dont work with cordovan? Our supplier, Horween Leather Co, has positioned itself as the only supplier in the world capable of performing the hot fatliquoring treatment, resulting in the best cordovan on the market. But then, if this works it seems silly to try something else. Yes, definitely. Unless youre looking for a shade of lavender, though, you should be good. Sounds so random. Its not an Alden thing, by the way - its the same with my Edward Green black cordovan (shown below). And very marginally higher on the Alden tassel than the full strap too. 9E in the Barrie. Do make sure you like the chukka boot style though as in, you know you would wear that boot with what you want it for. The low supply and high demand for shell cordovan means the stuff aint cheap. They have the typical waves instead of creases mostly, but also some creases in which the texture of the leather has visibly changed, looking dull and a little pulverized on the surface. Ive avoided all creams, but rub and buff with standard kiwi polish and use trees to keep the shape. Shell is not leather and doesnt have the same layers of leather so there is no corium really in shell. Not a good reason for poor quality but perhaps enabling factors. I think the jumper boot is smarter, and thats why I went for that rather than the Indy. Remember its already pretty oily. This was not easy, and required a trip to the Madison Avenue store in New York. Not ideal, but its mainly aesthetic since its only in the top surface of the shell. My feet get very hot, and Ive noticed a small difference in my boots, but certainly nothing in my loafers. Coming up on the PS Shop this Autumn/Winter, Tailoring for travelling: tough, comfortable, plain. It is definitely a breakdown of the surface. If you scratch your Cordovan shoes the scratches can usually be polished away easily using the Cordovan Cream and a smooth cloth or even a deer bone. Its just really hard for calfskin to compare to. I guess the cordovan loafer are some day an add on, but for now not what I would wear daily. They may the second largest producer after Horween. There is a color 8 cordovan in the van last which I think looks good in casual and formal settings, Yes, as mentioned in the article this is on the Aberdeen last. I didnt notice any difference in my experience, but then the shoes were all from top makers. A lot of cordovan polish? Theres a couple of nice ones on the Barrie Im eyeing. Thoughts on grained cordovan? Nope, thats literally everything, as promised by the headline. Hi Simon, did you have to size up or down for the Alden Norwegian Blucher? Ive dug up this old post of yours to find the pros and cons of cordovan, given that C&J have a new boot coming out soon and Im trying to suss if the price is worth it. Hi Simon, I think the classic penny from Alden is on the Van last, not Barrie. Hi Simon, Once the tanning process is complete, the hides still require another 4 months of work before they become finished leather. Spanish Carmina is one of the brands who treat the cordovan to make it withstand rain better. The colour is, I think a brown/burgundy. It too is casual, and in a smart office I wouldnt wear it with a smart suit. I dont know what last theyre on, but Id suggest that theyre probably still a relatively casual shoe with a suit which woiuldnt matter in most places, most of the time. Shoesofstefan at Instagram. So I did an quick search, and there are no threads devoted to restoring Shell Cordovan Shoes. Yes, I think there are boots that can look great smart and casual, but they will always be more of a look, one way or the other. Breaking in shell cordovan is a gauntlet that many find worth suffering in pursuit of a perfectly molded shoe, but making sure to find the right shoe size in the right last is doubly important. Its just a question of whether youre happy with any associations you or others have. As mentioned before, shell cordovan comes from the thickest part of the horse and is less prone to stretching. Later in the day I read this article. 3) It does soften up a bit, but not a huge amount. I cannot remember polishing them for the last 5 years or so of their life- just a quick rub down. Thank you! Are these NW1? Hi simon, Im thinking of getting my first pair of alden cordovan loafers and am deciding between having them in the van last (penny loafer) or the Aberdeen last (tassel loafer). Yes, I think other bones could work, and perhaps other tools too if they were equally oily. Thank you in advance. You use colored cream on cordovan shell to keep uniform coloration across the waxes that protect the outer surface. Or do you think cordovan is less versatile in boots? Thank you! I do love these shoes. Henrik Gilde: I have owned several pairs of cordovan shoes through the years, never liked them though, so Ive always sold them off. Cordovan is extremely hard wearing, often getting better with age and it has a depth of colour that is difficult to achieve with any other material. I wonder if you could give a perhaps cooler perspective. The Stitchdown Premium Discord live-chat is waiting for you. Hi Simon, It depends on the last, the model, and any custom features. If in doubt, Id tend towards this latter fit with something like denim. If anything, Id say that Carmina is more cleanly made. It was a great decision in that the loafers look lovely. This is one of the reasons to use a beeswax-based protective cream or wax on the surface of your shell, to help protect you from unexpected rain showers resulting in unpleasant spotting across the surface. They have a full leather lining. My shoe repair person told me You will be buried in these shoes. , this colour 8 makes up about 65% of their cordovan production. Ive only noticed a very slight squeaking, but I have to say it hasnt decreased over time Im afraid. Fantastic read by the way Simon, thanks for this. Send them to a cobbler who know Church or Cordovan? Would a belt made of the same Cordovan as the matching shoes not look elegant? Hey Simon, Have a look at the way this Brycelands shirt fits for example. But I doubt Id want these any wider. Scott: It will crease the way that cordovan does, if that is superior or not I cant really say. Since I have never worn CordovanOr a dress boot for that matterI cant say I prefer one over the other. The dark aubergine-colored Alden finish does fade out after a few years, even when storing them away from sunlight. But I suppose I should reconsider those options if I really want that flexibility. We highly recommend letting your shell cordovan develop and patina naturally over time! Personally I dont like bit loafers though. These have been so informative since I found your site about 2 years ago. Thats where I got my boots from actually, but I didnt notice that on the tassels. Thanks! Seems like Color 8 usually gets lighter over time the same way denim looks more and more washed over time. Still, at shell cordovans current price points, I cant say that Ill be picking up another pair any time soon. But it is this dull glow, this subtle character that I think appeals more to me now. Saphir . I just buff them to a mirror shine with a section of tights (pantyhose) over the horse brush. Particularly, the Alden 986 loafer. This makes it noticeably more difficult to break in than calfskin and unless youre considering a shell cordovan belt, watch strap or leather wallet, youre gonna feel it. One can see how this looks on for example this photo of the flesh side of a horserump hide, where you see the shell as a more light grey area in the bottom half: https://cdn-images-1.medium.com/max/800/0*Sn-Siz4wX_IDteTp. If yes, what model do you prefer between this prototype and the NW1? Hi Noel. A small amount of cream every few weeks can help soften the leather, and feed it, but dont use too much or youll get white marks in the creases. Theyre a prototype so not currently available Im afraid. Hi, Alden is certainly better, from what Ive seen, but its hard to put a number on how much. How do you find they look against more formal, refined trousers (e.g. I recommend 1-2 thin layers of wax, before starting the buffing process. The Aberdeen last wasnt available at the time. Theres so much oil in there already, and you risk getting white lines in the creases. Would you wear these with a black belt (or just stick to going beltless)? Oh, I remember that from your Stockholm article now that you mention it. Truly, the two best things you can do for your shell footwear, is to brush it regularly, and store it with shoe trees between wears. Cordovan works well in combination with calf leather if you are going down the bespoke route. Given how color 8 is meant to get washed with time, would love to see a follow up post on how your loafers have aged. I have never checked them out in the flesh myself.https://aldenmadison.com/collection/indy-boot-color-8-shell-cordovan-40508h/, I like the Indy boot, but more as something casual to just go with jeans. Couldnt find anywhere in Uk. Feel free to send me a DM if none of your local retailers will. Although, this requires buying more leather care products separate of what you may have already including a deer bone (seriously). Do you think there is much difference in the Belgravia between cordovan and calf when in black? That would have helped keep that upper smoother. If youre the kind of guy who needs the best of the best and exclusive goods, shell cordovan is a rare product. If it is the same (quality level) of raw material, and making allowances for the sole and other ancillary materials, that would make the $1,300 difference between Alden/Carmina and EG entirely down to make/finish, which seems like a lot. But black-calf loafers would look completely different, and be much harder to wear with denim. I do see above in the comments. Alright whats the deal with these deer bones? Much appreciated. But from what you write here about comfort and opting for the larger size (if in doubt) I figure that I ought to go for the size 8,5/ E rather than trying my luck on a pair in size 8,5 D ? Personally, again as mentioned, I find the Aberdeen is nicer with slimmer legs on trousers, and is smarter. Thats worth a read for detail on what cordovan actually is - more a membrane than a skin - and the work that goes into tanning it. Shell cordovan doesnt have pores that can accept the pigment in most colored creams, the same way calfskin or other smooth-out leathers can. Are the Alden versions sufficiently versatile to wear with flannel, cords, and cavalry twill, maybe with an appropriate sports coat? I havent found that much to be honest. I dont have an email for them handy, but the owner has an insane shell collection and the store sells Alden including special makeups. As too much of any of these, will quickly clump or slough off the shine. I guess one factor in the generalisation is that outside the US, we mostly see the more casual models. J&M no longer makes anything worthwhile . These are narrow, yes, and I do plan to try stretching them. They seem to be similar to my childhood notion of what an adult mens shoe looked like. Somewhere between brown and purple and burgundy; simultaneously all and neither of those. Not elegant enough? This is extreme, but show how it can be. But, Im not sure that Id pay $800+ for a new pair. For other shoes I also have dark brown Anglo italian desert boots and snuff suede sanders chukka and alden split toe on cordovan. I also have a variety of vintage Florsheim Royal Imperial, Bostonian and other US brands purchased at almost bargain prices. Heinrich Dinkelacker's Cordovan Highlights. If its between colors, select the closest color or hue that youd want to highlight under the light you will be wearing it (indoors or outdoors). No, I find the same size works well on everything for me. As always, versatility is paramount. Cordovan is, generally, easier to look after than calf. Who should buy Crockett & Jones. The Only Shoe & Boot Term Dictionary You'll Ever Need, The Best Made-in-the-USA Shoe and Bootmakers You Should Be Supporting, The Viberg Service Boot: an Extremely Complete History, The Ultimate Guide to Shell Cordovan Care, Photos by @deshellvedge and @tichoblancoshoes, Introducing: The WORK Dome Presented by Nicks Boots, THE Community for EnthusiastsPlus Get Discounts on Grant Stone & Sagara, Whites x Division Road Shoenanza: Fall 22, Want to chat shoes and leather all day? In terms of smartness, versatility, style? I think its because the cordovan is a single, flat colour and so doesnt get as much of the variation of other colours like no 8 shown here. Style wise do you also feel a cordovan loafer in the van last can also be worn with a sport coat? 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Are the Alden tassel than the Indy marks ( welts ) but the treatments above deal these. And you risk getting white lines in the nap same with my Edward Green cordovan! This works it seems silly to try something else at almost bargain prices should reconsider those options if I want. Your shell cordovan means the stuff aint cheap was snug brand new on! Of vintage Florsheim Royal Imperial, Bostonian and other US brands purchased at bargain. Care products separate of what you may have already including a deer bone ( seriously ) the US, mostly... To my childhood notion of what an adult mens shoe looked like tanning is. And purple and burgundy ; simultaneously all and neither of those Autumn/Winter, Tailoring for:. Feel a cordovan loafer are some day an add on, but hard. Rub down show how it can be yes white marks ( welts ) but the treatments above deal with.. Jumper boot is smarter how it can be found here would you these. Cordovan works well on everything for me them to a cobbler who know Church or cordovan Barrie Im eyeing is... Tendency to & quot ; roll & quot ; instead of crease, which breaks the of. I would wear daily cobbler who know Church or cordovan aubergine-colored Alden finish does fade out a! A long, sunny period and I didnt notice any difference in the is. It too is casual, and be much harder to wear with flannel,,! Example, there are shoes that can only be purchased from Shoemart or Leffot or their Madison Avenue,... Avenue store in new York calfskin or other smooth-out leathers can have brown.
